23 October 2020,
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They’ve taken the oil from southern Sudan leaving the south in darkness. One of the poorest countries in the world, it has been afflicted by a series of incompetent and corrupt governments, war, drought, famine and a staggering foreign debt. The country has suffered from years of civil war, and millions are displaced with many living in refugee camps both within and outside of the country. With that in mind I decided to relax, stop worrying, observe my surroundings and deal with whatever comes my way. Southern Sudan faces a lot of problems. We went to Malakal to deliver a new computer tablet to our team working there and to see how the market price collection was going. South Sudan at Glance. Welcome to Life in South Sudan. Fruit and vegetables for consumption are grown seasonally. I took one last deep breath and boarded my plane with the sense of having jumped into a deep and unknown ocean. Sudan has been plagued by one of the longest and deadliest civil wars in the world. There are a few noticeable changes; more holes and bumps in some of the roads, other roads have been repaired, a high wall around the graveyard to chase the settlers away and our old Frisbee field at UNMISS is now an IDP camp. No killing, no threatening, just dancing. People ask you at the airport where you are going and if you can deliver things for their family. Today, my job feels far away from reality and little relevant in this environment. When you come close you realize it’s not just any open area. There was no power in my guesthouse when I arrived at 3.30. While wearing it I brushed my teeth and washed my face before I went to bed under the mosquito net. A third of its 12 million population has fled their homes. Very hot. At my gate in Addis I looked around to see what kind of people I was travelling with. It’s my last week at NBS and I’m at Juba international airport on my way to Malakal for a field visit. Map of Sudan. Without the sound of generators and traffic the city is silent. Lots of Arabs in the north … Nilotic (African people) in the south. There is a high cost of living in most parts of the country. The power was off. They’re having tea, carrying water and children are playing, waving at you and shouting “Morning! Her illustrations offer a glimpse into daily life at a hospital where MSF has been working to provide obstetric and paediatric care since 2008. You’ll see more tombstones showing under piles of plastic bags and bottles. Life in Sudan. I drove past the same place today, saw a small heap of dirt with decoration on top of it and a woman kneeling next to it, head down, crying. If we overcome rain, mud, extreme heat, old equipment and slow internet, we still encounter other difficulties. Basic services, including roads, drinkable water, electricity, schools and hospitals have been neglected. It supports a profusion of wildlife. No kids shouting, “Morning! But now he says he’s 28. It wasn’t even a request. In January 2017 we met South Sudan refugees who are living in Bidi Bidi in Uganda. He was South Sudanese. I couldn’t stop starring and wished I could take a picture of him (although I knew that the image of him would last in my mind forever). South Sudan descended into civil war in 2013, two years after the end of its decades-long war for independence from Sudan. Once again I need to keep an open mind to what I will see and experience. Uncertainty is another. I enjoyed watching scenes you don’t get to see in Juba, like people cultivating on islands in the Nile. Women, men, children and old people are all living in the graveyard. The same thing happened today but this time it’s a bit different. I’ll let these words end my exchange year at the National Bureau of Statistics. The question above was raised when I was out in the field with our enumerators and I think it illustrates the problem well. We have a product line which includes five-gallon,125ml, 200ml and 200ml bottles. We eat seasonally … Different kind of fruit here. It felt like standing on a trampoline before diving into deep water. The fees are for security, mostly, but all land is expensive in and around Juba. I remember sitting at my gate in Addis, waiting to board my flight to Juba, feeling scared and nervous. South Sudan is slowly emerging from a civil war that has killed almost 400,000 people and displaced millions. https://www.instagram.com/drewbinsky/In 2011, Sudan broke into 2 separate countries. In my room I found my headlight. Oh I love field trips. We were balancing on the edge, doing something that we shouldn’t and maybe that is what evoked a sense of freedom. A third of the population is displaced, every second person is … I had decided not to set my alarm after receiving a text message from my boss telling me to not come to work in the morning because of fighting among the presidential guard. He was tall and was wearing a brown suit and looked like he could be someone important. Five years of intense civil warfare have decimated South Sudan’s economy and killed an estimated 380,000 people. Some might say that children dying in South Sudan is so common that this child was just a number in the statistics. Informing people back home. One slightly reckless car ride and I fell asleep happy, relaxed and feeling safe for the first time in a long while. There are more stories to come. Morning!”. As special as it is, now I am one of those too many people with a war story. The TROIKA and three European countries call on South Sudan leaders to take swift action in implementing the revitalized peace agreement; … In terms of infrastructure, there ain't much to speak of. Watching this man, trying to understand who would wear such a fantastic outfit with fluffy tiger slippers, took away most of my fear and nervousness and I only prepared myself to be amazed. Most do not have electricity. What age do we use?”. I wasn’t locked inside. A blog about working and living in South Sudan. Our people keep cattle and rear goats, sheep for marriage purposes and consumption. Marriages are traditionally arranged by the parents of the couple. In other words there is complete darkness, except for the lights at the UN compound that light up the sky of Juba, hiding the stars. From outside I could hear something that sounded like explosions. As they continue to settle in and adjust, they tell us what day to day life is like in the Boya Hills, South Sudan. A day in the life … in South Sudan. Stay inside and wait for information!” That’s when I started realizing that the situation was far more serious than anything I had experienced before in Juba. A friend of mine sent me this picture with some words that look very familiar. Family is important. Lucy Cranston October 21, 2016 Andrew and Anna Beckham moved to live among the unreached Laarim people at the beginning of September this year. None of my housemates were yet up. The south is home for many tribal groups and associated languages. Hundreds of thousands more are at risk of starving to death. Sleeping in the corner of my bed to keep away from the window. This land is ours. (Alam Mathiang Machot), Some houses that are built down low … maybe a hyena, tiger or lion will come during the night and break in. We used them when we went dancing.”, I had to interrupt him right there. South Sudan’s population, predominantly African cultures who tend to adhere to Christian or animist beliefs, was long at odds … Between Konyo Konyo market and an expat bar called Bedouin there’s a big and green open area. I have never felt cold in Juba but this morning the temperature was below 20 degrees. Work was also good. Fighting, soldiers deserting the army or defecting to the opposition, rebels regrouping, mines, no progress in peace talks, starvation, cholera outbreaks and no way of knowing whether things will improve or get worse. No refrigeration, fresh food. In the centre is the Sudd, a vast expanse of lakes and lagoons. There will be a young gentleman who will sleep with [the goats] and are supposed to protect them. Courtesy: JCKole, Flickr Creative Commons. It was cold. Ta-ta-ta-ta-ta-ta…. I am returning to a place that used to be my home, where I have friends and memories and still some of my belongings, yet I feel like I am diving into the unknown. She don’t speak the english.” So now I’m escorting his mother to Malakal and I’ll make sure she gets on her next flight. They were standing in groups, quietly, without talking and two men were digging a hole not far from their sheds. Some might say that children dying in South Sudan is so common that this child was just a number in the statistics. Compare the Cost of Living in Juba with any other city in the world. My hotel didn’t have any water either, or power, which made my stay there rather unpleasant. There is still no city power and most people turn their generators off at night. whatsontheplate.aftonbladet.se/chapter/smitta…. Even the discovery of oil in southern Sudan in 1978 and the associated huge oil revenues has not brought any improvement. The sad reality is that this child didn’t even make it to become just a number. Normality is one side of war. No sound of birds. You risk getting stopped at checkpoints or at gunpoint or getting robbed, or all three of those alternatives at the same time. It was one of those Juba nights. And for the people curious about what market price collection in South Sudan can look like, here are some pictures. It is hard to describe the days that followed. Larim tribe mother breastfeeding her child, Boya Mountains, Imatong, South Sudan on November 22, 2019 in Imatong, South Sudan. It was a grave. The water stations in the town were empty for water so everywhere we went we saw people carrying water from the Nile. I am back at that trampoline, waiting to jump. There were simply no way of escaping the heat. Basic services, including roads, drinkable water, electricity, schools and hospitals have been neglected. JUBA, South Sudan — “If we die, we die with these people.” Amid the screams and constant crackle of gunfire outside the Don Bosco compound in Gumbo, South Sudan… The war has changed South Sudan and it has changed me. In Malakal they also use donkeys and horses for transport and they “decorate” them as if they were matatus or cars. Boom! Staying in touch friends in Juba. I moved around and it was fine. This time to a civil war. The different stages of the life-cycle of an individual including The guards opened the gate, smiled and asked me if I feared that they wouldn’t open for me. I wandered out on the balcony. (Alam Mathiang Machot). Hundreds of thousands of South Sudanese have been affected by this conflict and with them there are hundreds of thousands of war stories. Life for many of Sudan's population of 34 million is harsh. Most South Sudanese value kinship. Prior to 2011, South Sudan was part of Sudan, its neighbour to the north. Women, men, children and old people are also dying in the same graveyard. If I didn’t know better I wouldn’t be able to tell that there was a war going on. South Sudan, also called Southern Sudan, country located in northeastern Africa. Cattle camp, southern Sudan. The price collection is going well and we’ll release new data soon. This is very common here. Saying goodbye to friends who managed to evacuate. The first time I went to South Sudan was in April 2012 and the country was almost at war with Sudan. In hot and noisy Juba I had never experienced a morning like this. ”He is saying he was 23 in 2004. This is partly because you shouldn’t move around late at night. Normally they are leading their normal life. While listening to the surreal background noise of explosions and shootings, trying to comprehend the situation one thought came to mind, “So this is what war sounds like.”. I thought I had heard gunfire just before receiving his message, but my reaction to shootings is a bit different now from when I heard it the first time in Juba. SUBSCRIBE for daily travel videos: http://bit.ly/2hyQnZ1 INSTAGRAM! We’re watching al Jazeera and I’ve managed to explain to her to keep her ticket and boarding pass ready. Life goes on, people go to their jobs and try to cope with the situation the best they can. The mother I escorted made it on to her connecting flight, and my colleague carried a bag of food that he handed over to a woman in the waiting hall in the airport in Malakal. Once again I need to take one last deep breath, jump and remember to swim for the surface. Larger and smaller grave looking piles all facing the same direction. How are you?”. Food in Sudan is organic. This night, being stressed about finishing up before Christmas and annoyed by the neighbor’s new, massive and noisy generator, my initial reaction was only irritation, “Oh great! South-Sudan, Mingkaman in Lake State. As I was waiting to enter my gate a man came up to me and said, “You go with my mother. And I was hoping for a good night’s sleep!” With my neighbor’s new generator drowning out the sound of shootings I had managed to sleep through the fighting. LIFE WATER is a private limited liability water company and investment company registered & incorporated by the government of South Sudan under company’s act 2012 with certificate of incorporation number 11706 dated on 6 th Oct 2011. Today, the young country is crippled by hunger and civil war. She or he was born, lived and died outside of a refugee camp, outside of a hospital or any other place where she or he would have been counted for and received help. Questionnaire design is always tricky but becomes a bit of a challenge when even age is a debatable question. Five years of civil war have decimated South Sudan's economy and killed 380,000 people. The central government in the capital, Khartoum, has marginalised southerners and other ethnic groups, including the Darfurian people in the west. They put great emphasis on knowing one’s tribal origin, traditions, and customs. We don’t use money. (Alam Mathiang Machot), Travelling on foot in southern Sudan. I must have a very sweet and innocent looking face because wherever I go in the world people always ask me for directions and people at bus stations and airports always ask me to watch their luggage. 173. Courtesy: Africadinka, Flickr Creative Commons. The International Organization for Migration – Chief of Mission, Peter Van Der Auweraert – talks to Eye Radio about IOM’s activities in South Sudan and the main priorities of the organization in the country. However, the reason I remember him is that he had a goatee and was wearing huge, brown, round 80’s style glasses and on his feet he had fluffy slippers with tiger stripes. Goods are used as currency rather than money. People herd cattle at riverside camps in the dry season and grow millet and other grains in fixed settlements during the rainy season. (Alam Mathiang Machot), No electricity. Family is the most important aspect of life in South Sudan. I saw one sad looking donkey with flowers behind its ears and another with a hat. A colleague and I discussed guns the other day and I asked him how common it is that people in South Sudan have guns. At least it makes people aware of it so that they respectfully can park their Land Cruisers beside the graves, and not on top of them, when going for a drink. As I have mentioned before in this blog post, conducting surveys and collecting data in South Sudan is not an easy task. In 1870, Samuel Baker, a British explorer, colonized Equatoria – … Half an hour later the Swedish Embassy in Khartoum called me. That’s when different types of mutual exchange happen. List of prices in Juba (South Sudan) for food, housing, transportation, going out, and more on May 2021. Before it was legal and you could buy a gun for a cow or two in the market. Another type of gun.”. So far all is well. On top of the graves, between the tombstones, people have settled down and built small sheds of whatever they could find; iron sheet, cloth, grass, bamboo. Boom! Traffic is as crazy as it used to be, people are out walking, shops are open and women are selling mangoes on the roadside as before. Sometimes I get overwhelmed by South Sudan. Courtesy: Ngari, Norway, Flickr Creative Commons. The southern Sudanese have a strong oral tradition; problems are solved through public discussion and agreements are verbal, witnessed by others. We ended up singing karaoke at the U.S. residence until 3 am. It started as the colony of Equatoria. The statement is of course a bit misleading as the number of aid workers is probably larger here than in other countries. They were mostly men, most of them older, there were Chinese businessmen, aid workers and people working for the UN. Preparing for evacuation. At 3 o’clock in the morning the streets of Juba are empty. The central government in the capital, Khartoum, has marginalised southerners and other ethnic groups, including the Darfurian people in the west. Our survey has kept on going without big interruptions since the conflict broke out. Just like the first time I feel scared and nervous but the excitement is not there. As I looked around I noticed more and more piles of dirt. Yesterday I drove past it and watched the settlers from my car window. (Edward Massimino), Some [houses] used to go up to ten year, twelve years without being renovated … Some people have three or four houses, one for sleeping, one for cooking, one for the food, one for the goats. We managed to squeeze into one car and then drove around Juba to get everybody home. But I have to admit that if you have to use guns, this must be the absolute best way to do it. “Family” can refer to an expansive kinship network, including the extended family and distant relatives, as well as the relatives of spouses that are married into the family. Ask questions about what and which. Hugging myself to keep warm I stood and listened to the explosions and gunfire. “Yes, a gun shows you are rich,” and he added, “But it wasn’t automatic. No one is outside and there are no cars. The largest tribes are the Dinka and Nuer. Weatherwise, it's hot, year round. The Azande, Bor and J Luo tribes are located in the west of the region. I don’t know what more to write. Grinding maize, southern Sudan. Everyday Life in South Sudan. They even had home made painted number plates on the donkey carriages. (Makuei Ajak Ariik), A town in southern Sudan. There are also some surprises, like a newly opened French bakery and a new hotel with a very nice roof top restaurant. No generator on. If you continue past Bedouin you’ll soon learn that the graveyard is also a home to some people. Life in South Sudan, illustrated From January to July 2019, architect Camille Quilichini spent time with MSF in Aweil, northwest South Sudan. People are disappointed. Uses cost of living, purchasing power, safety, pollution, climate, traffic and other available information collected about South Sudan to show information about quality of life in South Sudan. “A story like this is special and doesn’t come easy”, he said. I could recognize the scars on his forehead from pictures I had seen. “Where are you? Malakal is located up north close to the boarder to Sudan. The thought of this happening in Sweden or Norway is of course absurd. In the interview, Van Der Auweraert highlights the challenges IOM is facing in terms of its intervention strategies in the humanitarian […] He told me it’s very common and that you need it for protection. While walking along it you’ll soon notice the large amounts of rubbish. I deeply wish for 2014 to be the year we start telling love stories. People would be terrified if you showed up at a party with your gun, automatic or not. “You used them when you went dancing? Courtesy: Norman B Leventhal Map Centre at the Boston Public Library, Flickr Creative Commons. I wondered why they were digging and wished to myself that it wasn’t another grave. I stepped over one guard who was sleeping on the stairs leading up to the second floor and managed to open my door using the light from my phone. Keep walking and you’ll see children searching through the garbage piles looking for something they can use. Today I’ve been entrusted someone’s mom. It’s a graveyard. I asked if it was to attract women. For the past 27 … This is one of those moments. Even the discovery of !” He laughed at the surprised look on my face and explained that when he was a child people wore guns over their shoulders when they went dancing. While cruising the streets of Juba I leaned my head out of the car window, let the wind blow in my hair, and while breathing in the sweet, warm night air I felt free. Outside of Bedouin there’s sign that says “No parking in graveyard”. The United Nations warned in … On the surface everything seems normal. But my time in South Sudan is not yet over. Juba / ˈ dʒ uː b ə / is the capital and largest city of South Sudan.The city is situated on the White Nile and also serves as the capital of Central Equatoria State.It is the world's newest capital city, and had a population of 525,953 in 2017. Hiding from gunfire in the hallway. This is the ultimate Juba Guide or your South Sudan guide. Most probably it would scare people away. Still in my pyjamas I stepped into the kitchen. The Republic of Sudan is Africa’s largest country and is located in the north-east of the continent. A friend told me that he had read that South Sudan is the third most dangerous country for aid workers, with 15 incidents last year. Black southerners are the owners of this land. JUBA, South Sudan — Three years ago, the people of South Sudan celebrated the birth of a nation. Courtesy: United Nations, Flickr Creative Commons, Extracted from United Nations Children’s Fund (UNICEF) statistics, updated 7 April 2009. (Alam Mathiang Machot), Sudan is divided by nature. Women try to avoid dust as a plane, carrying nutrition supplements brought in by Medecins Sans Frontieres (MSF), lands in Leer July 15, 2014. We are not allowed to have self-determination. Finally evacuating after five extremely stressful days. Fighting! Not to mention the war stories that are being told from other parts of the world. The fighting that had started last night was still going on. The new generation South Sudanese, who were born and raised during peace, now have a new generation of war stories to tell. If you don't have family there, you can expect several months of "glamping" in a nicely-fitted tent, at astronomical nightly fees. And what is statistics if we cannot catch all of this; add one tragedy to other meaningless deaths and use that sum to calculate the needs of this country. According to the latest WHO data published in 2018 life expectancy in South Sudan is: Male 57.7, female 59.6 and total life expectancy is 58.6 which gives South Sudan a … A part from the hotel, the field trip went well. The best advice I got before going to South Sudan was to keep an open mind and to have no expectations, because there is just no way to be prepared for what you will experience. There are few large towns in southern Sudan and most people live in small villages in round, thatched houses. They are from a text I wrote in Norwegian that can be found  here. It has an ethnically and linguistically diverse population and a history of disputes between the Arab Muslim north and the African Christian south regarding religion, culture and political autonomy. Ta-ta-ta-ta-ta… Boom! It would definitely not appeal to the ladies. Oral literary tradition helps keep alive the culture of the people, especially among the non-literate groups. Education, electricity, water, transport and … The sad reality is that this child didn’t even make it to become just a number. Diving into deep water slow internet, we still encounter other difficulties life in South Sudan is not an task. Home made painted number plates on the donkey carriages of aid workers is probably larger here than other... They are from a text I wrote in Norwegian that can be found here Ngari. 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A challenge when even age is a debatable question the settlers from my window! Capital, Khartoum, has marginalised southerners and other ethnic groups, including the people. And you ’ ll soon notice the large amounts of rubbish subscribe for daily travel videos::.

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